The unapologetic sex appeal of Saint Laurent | 2ZT9451 | 2024-03-01 14:08:01
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Transparency has long been part of Saint Laurent's visual id, a legacy the artistic director seemed to and constructed upon with this assortment. Sheer silk blouses, tops and sweeping, see-through clothes, all worn without undergarments, took to the runway in a palette of black, mustard, khaki, maroon and jewel tones. The space between clothing and pores and skin was minimised; material draped with such particularity to create the illusion of it melding into the body. As the home described the creations, the sheer notes have been like "hyper-graphic X-rays," an clever research of type.
Taking inspiration from Marilyn Monroe's famous bare robe — also called the Joyful Birthday Mr. President gown — the transparent clothes have been typically full within the physical coverage of the body, with skirts hitting just above the knee or sleeves masking the arms in full.
The sheer pieces have been balanced with tailoring in Saint Laurent's signature type — sharp, block-coloured and executed with precision. Different non-translucent clothes retained a fluid nature, with fluffy jackets engulfing the shape and with clothes falling from shoulders and hips with ease, as if extensions of the physique.
Finally, the collection posed the question: "Can purity be provocative?"
The exploration of dichotomies is, whether intentional or not, one other nod to the house's founder, Yves Saint Laurent. As Elsa Janssen, director of& Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris, has beforehand noted: "Yves Saint Laurent was a man of contrasts. Basic and trendy, baroque and minimalist, a colourist and a grasp in using black, he hid within his work an infinite variety of potential interpretations."
Vaccerello's questions of purity and provocation, and of transparency and enduring magnificence, are yet one more instance of the home's nuance, executed by means of a pointy, singular imaginative and prescient.
Watch the complete show under.
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